Cruise Specialists Voyage Hosts Susan Atkins and Kevin LaGraff spent the late spring and early summer on Seabourn Ovation hosting 4 cruises. They have provided a detailed account of their exciting journey.
We are off on another odyssey – four cruises in all!
- 12-day Transatlantic crossing from Miami to Lisbon
- 12-day cruise from Lisbon to Morocco and the Canary Islands
- 10-day cruise from Portugal to Spain, Ireland, Wales, France and England
- 11-day cruise to Belgium, Holland, Norway, Denmark, Sweden and Germany
We are covering a lot of territory on the beautiful Seabourn Ovation which carries 600 guests. Our group is rather large – about 55 guests per voyage. We know a lot of the staff on this ship and have some familiar faces in our group. Springtime in Europe is a great time to visit before the heat and crowds of summer. We haven’t spent much time on the continent in the last few years, so we are eagerly looking forward to this trek around the “Old World.”
Leaving Miami
It was a beautiful sail-away from Miami as we headed out to cross the Atlantic. This cruise is for guests that love the sea as we had 10 straight days on the ocean blue. We really lucked out with the weather; it was a calm passage. Flat seas with mild winds and temperatures. There was plenty to do on board between lectures, art classes, computer lessons, shows, gym, dances, internet, and pools and a ping pong table! We toured the Bridge and met up with several officers we knew from previous cruises.
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Funchal
After 10 days at sea we docked in Funchal, Madeira. The island is often called the Floating Garden. It is beautifully lush and famous for its renowned Madeira wine. Thomas Jefferson loved this fine wine and it was used to toast the signing of the Declaration of Independence. Almost every mountain on the island is terraced with vineyards, sugar cane fields or banana trees. We hosted a tour for our Distinctive Voyages group here. Instead of big tour buses, we had Land Rovers with open canvas tops. Our first stop was at the Skywalk Overlook on a mountain cliff. At about 2000 feet it is the highest peak in Europe. The glass floor gave some folks the willies as they peered straight down at the Atlantic Ocean. Next, we went to a vineyard for a tasting of six different varietals of excellent wine. We were glad we went there after the Skywalk! Our final stop was at a honeybee farm. Along with a tasting, we learned about the vital importance of bees in the world ecosystem.
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Lisbon
Two days later we cruised into Lisbon at daybreak and passed under Lisbon’s version of the Golden Gate Bridge. Now that the first cruise is complete, we spent the day getting ready for our new group of 64 guests as we cruised back under the bridge and into the Atlantic to Morocco. Time to meet new friends and visit new ports!
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Agadir
Our first port of Agadir, Morocco is on the northwestern coast of Africa. I thought it would be warmer, but this area is influenced by the cooler current that comes down from Greenland. We took the ship’s shuttle bus to the main town square and then a two-hour taxi tour around the town. We ended up at the souk (market) with 8,000 shops where we purchased beautiful scarves and pashminas.
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Canary Islands
Next, the Canary Islands – a winter playground for Europeans and aptly named “The Happy Islands.” We docked at five islands in five days and found all of them to be quite unique and lovely. Surprisingly, the Canary Islands are named not for the bird of that name but instead for the dog breed called “Presa Canario.” Lanzarote, Tenerife, and Grand Canary Island are highly developed urban cities that happen to have numerous beautiful beaches. El Hierro and Fuerteventura Islands are the least developed and have a more traditional Spanish lifestyle.
Since the ocean was too cold for snorkeling, we did another walking tour of the old town in Arrecife and saw lots of evidence of its volcanic origins. Santa Cruz is noted for its lovely town squares and parks and, of all things, Chinese Restaurants. So, we had the Tenerife version of Asian food at a nice outdoor restaurant. El Hierro is the least populated and was virtually closed for the May 1st worker’s holiday. The town itself is called the cloud city because it is so high on a cliff. The bus ride up and down is not for the faint of heart.
In Las Palmas we explored the old quarter which is filled with bountiful food and craft markets. In Puerto Rosario we again hired a taxi for a half hour ride to Corralejo. The towering sand dunes are remarkable as are the miles and miles of beaches. The island of Fuerteventura is the closest to Africa and is considered a Biosphere Reserve for its unique blend of desert ecosystems and sustainable tourism. We enjoyed the Canary Islands and can see why they are loved by many Europeans.
Casablanca
Next up we cruised back to Morocco and the exotic city of Casablanca made famous by Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. We took our group on a tour of the area and the first stop was at “Rick’s Café.” An enterprising Moroccan had some signs and plaques put on a building and opened a bar. Now it is a tourist favorite. We then went to one of the largest and most beautiful mosques in the world. The Hassan II Mosque was completed in 1993 and almost broke the city because of its massive construction costs. The beaches are beautiful, and the souks are filled with wonderous goods.
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Tangier
Our last port in Africa was Tangier. This is our favorite city in coastal Morocco. It is situated on a large half-moon bay and has maintained its stunning white Moroccan architecture. As usual we hired a cab and went to the top of the Medina which is the old commercial and residential area. From the hilltop we could see where the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean meet. The narrow alleyways and cobbled streets are lined with rug sellers and master weavers and all sorts of trinket shops. Our driver escorted us as we made our way on foot back down the hillside. There was much more to explore, we will have to return one day.
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Second Lisbon Sail Away
We had a beautiful evening for our second sail away from Lisbon. Next to the landmark bridge there is huge statue of Christ the King. It is a replica of the Christ the Redeemer statue that towers over Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Portugal and Brazil are primarily Catholic countries and of course Portuguese is the national language of both. Lisbon built their statue to thank Jesus Christ for sparing them from the horrors of WWII.
Porto
Porto is the second largest city in Portugal. Recently it has become one of the most visited areas in the world. It is easy to navigate and a friendly place on the Douro River, famous for its wine production. Several of our guests remarked that it was a place they could live comfortably.
Ferrol
We called on Ferrol, which is on the northwest tip of Spain facing the Atlantic Ocean. We took our group on a ride up the coast to the ancient town of A Coruña. This was a favorite spot for the Romans as they explored Europe. There is a stunning statue of Hercules which is used as a lighthouse beckoning seafarers from far and wide. We visited a local tapas bar for refreshments. Our guide showed us a small palace that is still owned by relatives of Francisco Franco.
Ireland
Leaving Spain, we headed north to Ireland crossing the Bay of Biscay off France. This bay is notorious for its high seas and ferocious winds, yet we barely had a ripple on the flat, calm sea. Cruising into Waterford is like watching an episode of “All Creatures Great and Small.” The lush green fields marked off by stone fences, dotted with sheep and lambs galore and some good-looking dairy cows munching away. Since it was Sunday, most attractions were closed so we meandered the main pedestrian streets. They were filled with families fresh from church and some thirsty folks headed to the nearest Guinness pub. Our big purchase was 6 ping pong balls and two bowls of Pho, the Vietnamese noodle soup. We found out that the restaurant owners were taking a big chance as they opened the first Vietnamese restaurant in this part of Ireland. We visited Christ Church and heard some nice organ music. One of the church ladies gave me a DVD of a recording made by the choir of the church.
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Wales
Upon arrival in Holyhead, Wales there was a major rainstorm, so we decided to have a “sea day.” The year we lived in London we got to see a lot of Wales. It is as lush as Ireland due to the frequent rain and mists.
Northern Ireland
Back we went to Northern Ireland to the city of Londonderry for a walk on the high walls protecting the city from intruders (the walls were built in the 1600s). The original four gates are still intact. In some places the walls are 30 feet wide. Ireland is still divided between Catholics and Protestants. They even use different currencies, the Euro and the British Pound. Most residents say the name of the town is Derry.
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France
Next on the agenda was the exquisite town of St. Malo in France. This is another walled city that figured prominently in WWII history. After D-Day, the city and walls were almost completely destroyed. The citizens rebuilt St. Malo to its original glory taking 12 years to complete the task. As we walked the walls and alleyways on this nice sunny day, all the outdoor restaurants were overflowing with people sipping espresso and eating crêpes.
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Cherbourg is another charming French coastal city. Many guests took tours out to Normandy to see the beaches and cemeteries that are all part of Eisenhower’s dramatic and successful invasion of the European continent. We ended up at the Maritime Museum whose focus is on shipping but also on underwater exploration. They have the actual submersibles on display in a huge hall. There is quite a fascination by many with that part of earth. After crossing the English Channel, we arrived in Dover, England on a misty morning ending this third segment of our odyssey. One more to go!
Antwerp
After departing Dover we cruised into Antwerp, Belgium. Another first for us since we have never visited Belgium. Antwerp lies far inland along the Scheldt River and is famous for its Chocolate Nation Museum. Many guests visited to taste the free chocolate samples. If not there, some opted for the De Koninck brewery for a taste and tour. Several beautiful buildings survived the intense bombing of WWII. Our favorite part of this was the six-hour cruise from Antwerp on the Scheldt River to the North Sea. The river is lined with windmills, villages, pastures and shipyards. It was fascinating cruising down the river on a Sunday afternoon!
Rotterdam
The rain in Rotterdam, Holland didn’t stop us from visiting an interesting photography museum conveniently located across the street from our cruise terminal. The Nederlands Fotomuseum houses mostly 20th century Dutch works ranging from Anne Frank’s passport photos to John Lennon and Yoko Ono’s “Bed-in for Peace” photo taken at the Amsterdam Hilton in 1969. We were docked next to the original Holland America Line headquarters. The SS Rotterdam was one of the first passenger ships built after the war. It is now permanently moored next to the old headquarters and is used as a hotel and museum.
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Kristiansand
After so many large cities, it was great to visit Kristiansand, Norway with its small-town appeal. Also, Kristiansand is often called the "Norwegian Riviera" due to its temperate climate. They even have a beach and palm trees on the edge of their fjord. Living up to its reputation, it was a lovely spring day, perfect for a stroll around. It seems that everyone was out and about enjoying the weather. There is a new museum that just opened a month ago call the KunstSilo. The art works are housed in a genuine grain silo that has been remade into this museum. It is situated next to another architectural wonder, the performing arts center. They are both located at the harbor, so it was just a hop, skip and a jump away from our ship to visit these unique structures.
Oslo
We lucked out with another fabulous spring day in Oslo. We love this town. It just so happens that all the lilacs and azaleas were in full bloom. We took our Distinctive Voyages group on a tour of the Vigeland Sculpture Park which contains over 200 of Mr. Vigeland’s bronze and iron works of art. This city is so alive and combines the old and new architecture in a harmonious mix.
Near the harbor there are two statues of Americans. President Franklin Roosevelt and John Marshall. This is in thanks for the military help the United States gave to Norway during WWII.
The long cruise down the Norwegian Fjord was spectacular and with the sun not setting until 10pm it was a nice backdrop while having dinner at the outdoor restaurant on board.
Gothenburg
Our Swedish port was Gothenburg on the west coast. This is the largest port in all of Scandinavia. It was founded as a trading colony in 1621 when all sorts of goods were being imported from Asia and India. We boarded a long, low canal boat for a tour of the moat which surrounds the old inner city and the busy harbor. Our flawlessly bilingual guide was full of information and tidbits. The Göta älv is the river that Gothenburg is situated on. It is also where the Göta Canal starts and crosses Sweden ending in Stockholm on the east coast.
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Copenhagen
We arrived in Copenhagen early in the morning. It was a nice day, so we boarded a local city bus and headed into town. At the plaza in the heart of central Copenhagen, there was a huge flea market attracting tourists and locals. A striking aspect of Copenhagen are the bike paths. It seems that everyone rides a bike in this city. Winter, summer, rain or snow, the number of bicycles on the streets would rival the chaotic roads in Ho Chi Minh City.
We walked Nyhavn harbor which is filled with tall ships, houseboats and restaurants. We decided to take a Hop-on Hop-off bus since the cost for an all-day pass on these tour buses was a mere 2 Euros. The tour narration is given in Danish and English. We got to see a lot of the area including the famous statue of The Little Mermaid, the Botanical Gardens and a peek at Tivoli Gardens.
Copenhagen is considered one of the world’s most livable cities. It seems that could be said about most of the towns and cities in Scandinavia.
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Nyborg
The sleepy village of Nyborg is located on an idyllic island in Southern Denmark. You would never guess that it was once the capital of Denmark. Ours was the first-ever cruise ship to dock there. We were welcomed by the local band and village officials. The town’s school buses served as our shuttle to town. The locals put on a small festival in the town square and several shops, restaurants and museums were open for us to wander in. It made for a wonderful afternoon of meeting locals and walking the quiet streets.
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Wismar
Wismar, Germany, located on the Baltic Sea, was a total surprise. It was heavily damaged during WWII and became part of the Soviet Union as East Germany until the Iron Curtain fell in 1990. Now it is an architectural wonder filled with rebuilt gabled houses, Gothic churches and the largest market square in Germany. We explored the cobbled pedestrian streets and alleyways. This was our last port of call and when we departed, we were serenaded by a local oom-pah band on the dock and saluted by five loud canon blasts. What a sendoff!
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The Kiel Canal
We were in for a real treat on our final day of the cruise. The Kiel Canal connects the North Sea with the Baltic Sea. It is a 61-mile-long canal which was completed in 1895 and is considered one of the world’s busiest waterways with an annual average of 32,000 commercial vessels passing through. Cruise ships are a rarity and thus we attracted much attention from the local farmers, campers, villagers and some curious cows and sheep as we cruised along the verdant farmland and forests. We expected a highly industrial area, but thankfully it was a rural wonderland. There are only two locks on this canal, one at the beginning and one at the end. It was a great way to spend our last day on the ship. We docked in Hamburg and disembarked the next morning. We spent two nights in Frankfurt before heading home. Thus, bringing to an end our magnificent 45-day soirée to Europe.
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Cheers,
Susan Atkins & Kevin LaGraff
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